Adobe Photoshop Tutorials: Brushes |
|
The
new brush engine introduced with Photoshop 7
is probably my favorite new feature since the
addition of the history palette. It provides
the power to turn previously lengthy, skull-compressing
chores into a matter of a few merry mouse clicks.
In this tutorial, we'll explore how a custom
brush can be used to make realistic leafy foliage.
|
|
|
|
 We
need to start by creating a path of a leaf. It's always
easier to start if you have an example to work off of,
so I plucked a maple leaf from a tree in my backyard and
scanned it. Use the Pen Tool to draw a path around the
shape of the leaf. You don't need to pick up every detail
of the left, just the general shape. (For more details
about using the Pen Tool you might want to reference the Paths
Tutorial).
|
|
|
 Fill
the shape in with black by going to the Paths Palette,
right-clicking on the path to select "Make a Selection," and
then pressing Alt+Backspace while your foreground
color is black. Make sure there is transparency showing
behind your leaf; you may have to hide the background layer
and others by clicking the eye icons in the Layers Palette.
Now we are ready to create a brush.
|
|
|
 Use
the Rectangular Marquee Tool to make a selection around
your leaf. Go to Edit>Define Brush and name your
brush (whatever you want) in the dialog box that pops up.
|
|
|
 Your
new brush can now be accessed in the Brush Palette, how
exciting. Create a new blank image, select the Paintbrush
Tool, and click on your brush at the bottom of the Brush
Palette.
|
|
|
 In
the Brush Palette, there are a great deal of settings you
can now customize to fit your own taste. Start by decreasing
the Master Diameter of the brush until it looks reasonably
sized in the preview below. I chose 40 px. Then click on Brush
Tip Size and increase the spacing. I settled with 90%.
Next click on the words Shape Dynamics. This is
where the real fun begins. Set the Size Jitter to 100%.
Experiment with the other settings if you feel like it.
Raise the Minimum Diameter to around 24% to prevent any
micro leaves from appearing in the final result. I also
changed the Angle Jitter to 13% and set the Angle Jitter
Control to Pen Pressure.
|
|
|
 Click
on Scatter from the left menu. Crank up the Scatter
a good bit. I went up to 607%. Make sure Both Axes is
checked. Adjust the Count if you want. I left it at 4.
The Count Jitter varies greatly with every brush, so it
is completely up to you. I lowered it to 20%.
|
|
|
 Next
go to the Color Dynamics menu. Set the Foreground/Background
Jitter to 100% to produce the largest variance in colors.
You will want to move the Hue Jitter up slightly. I set
it to 14%. The Hue Jitter, like the other three settings
below make slight changes to the colors of the leaves.
You will probably want to go back and adjust them afterwards
to see what produces the best effect.
|
|
|
 Lastly,
you need to select a foreground and background color that
define the range of colors the leaves will cycle through.
I chose a red for the foreground and a yellow/orange color
for the background. Make sure the Opacity and Flow of your
Paintbrush are set to 100% in the options menu at the top
of the screen so the leaves will display in full color.
Now put the Paintbrush Tool to the canvas and be amazed.
|
|
|
 I
must end with a note of apology because just as I reached
this step, I noticed Photoshop 7 has a lovely leaf brush
that comes with the program. All of this was not in vain,
however, because the stock leaf brush is that of an oak
leaf, not a maple like the one we just created. And of
course, you have to admit that our brush was much more
exciting to make and truly natural. To the left is a version
using green colors.
|
Tutorial
provided by: Spoono.com
|
